- A
- Abrasion Resistance
Fabric abrasion refers to the damage caused by the fabric rubbing against itself or external materials. Abrasion resistance is an important parameter in evaluating fabric quality. Also see Martindale and Wyzenbeek.
- Air Jet Spinning
A spinning system in which yarn is made by wrapping fibers around a core stream of fibers with compressed air.
- Air Permeability
The porosity, or the ease with which air passes through material. Air permeability determines such factors as the wind resistance of sailcloth, the air resistance of parachute cloth, and the efficiency of various types of air filtration media. It is also a measure of warmness or coolness of a fabric.
- Alternating Twist
A texturing procedure in which S and Z twist are alternately inserted in the yarn by means of a special heating apparatus.
- Aramid Fiber
A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming material is a long chain synthetic polyamide having at least 85% of its amide linkages (-NH-CO-) attached directly to two aromatic rings.
- Autoclave
An apparatus for the carrying out of certain finishing operations, such as pleating and heat setting, under pressure in a superheated steam atmosphere.
- B
- Balanced Cloth
A term describing a woven fabric with the same size yarn and the same number of threads per inch in both the warp and the fill direction.
- Bally Ribbon Mills (BRM)
A leader in the narrow fabrics industry. In business 90 years, it is known for its high quality goods, excellent customer service, and technical engineering expertise.
- Basket Weave
A variation of the plain weave in which two or more warp and filling yarns are woven side to side to resemble a plaited basket.
- Batik
Indonesian term for the wax-resist dyeing process, or a fabric patterned with this process. Such fabrics reached fantastic heights of virtuosity on the island of Java in Indonesia in the late-19th and early-20th centuries after the introduction of machine-made cotton fabrics permitted more finely controlled designs.
- Beam
A cylinder of wood or metal, usually with a circular flange on each end, on which warp yarns are wound for slashing, weaving, and warp knitting.
- Beaming
The operation of winding warp yarns onto a beam usually in preparation for slashing, weaving, or warp knitting. This process is also called warping.
- Beating–Up
The last operation of the loom in weaving, in which the last pick inserted in the fabric is “beat” into position against the preceding pick, usually by a “comb-like” device called a reed.
- Bi-directional Fabric
A fabric having reinforcing fibers in two directions, i.e. in the warp (machine) direction and filling (cross-machine) direction.
- Bicomponent Yarns
Spun or filament yarns of two generic fibers or two variants of the same generic fiber.
- Bleeding
Loss of color by a fabric or yarn when immersed in water, a solvent, or similar liquid medium, as a result of improper dyeing or the use of dyes of poor quality.
- Blend
A blend of two or more fabrics to create unlimited combination of durability, softness and patterns. By combining natural and man-made fibers the result will be a fabric that is longer wearing than one comprised of only natural fibers.
1. A yarn obtained when two or more staple fibers are combined in a textile process for producing spun yarns. 2. A fabric that contains a blended yarn in both the warp and filling direction. - Blending
The combining of staple fibers of different physical characteristics to assure a uniform distribution of these fibers throughout the yarn.
- Braid
A narrow textile band, often used as trimming or binding, formed by plaiting several strands of yarn. The fabric is formed by interlacing the yarns diagonally to the production axis of the material.
1. Biaxial Braid – Braided structure with two yarn systems running in one direction and the other in the opposite direction. 2. Triaxial Braid – a braided structure with axial yarns running in the longitudinal direction. - Braid Angle
The acute angle measured from the axis of the fabric or rope to a braiding yarn.
- Braided Fabric
A narrow fabric made by crossing a number of strands diagonally so that each strand passes alternately over or under one or more of the other strands.
- Braiding
The interwinding of three or more strands to make a cord or narrow fabric.
- Break Factor
A measure of yarn strength calculated as:
1. The product of breaking strength times the indirect yarn number. 2. The product of breaking strength times the reciprocal of the direct yarn number. - Breaking Strength
1. The maximum resultant internal force that resists rupture in a tension test. 2. The load (or force) required to break, or rupture, a specimen in a tensile test made according to a specified standard procedure. - Breaking Tenacity
The tensile stress at rupture of a specimen expressed as Newtons per Tex (cN/tex).
- Broad Goods
Woven fabrics 18 inches or more in width.
- Broadcloth
A fabric so named because it is woven in widths exceeding 29 inches.
- Brocade
Richly decorative designs made of colored silk fibers. It has an interwoven motif, usually of raised scrollwork, figures or flowers, often with gold or silver embroidered embellishments.
- Broken End
A broken, untied warp yarn in a fabric. Broken ends can result from: slubs, knots, improper shuttle alignment, shuttle hitting the warp shed, excessive warp tension, faulty sizing, and rough reeds, heddles, dropwires, or shuttles.
- Broken Pick
A broken filling yarn in a fabric. Broken picks can result from: excessive shuttle tension, weak yarn, or filling coming in contact with a sharp surface.
- C
- Cabled Twist
A construction of thread, yarn, cord, or rope in which each successive twist is in the same direction opposite the preceding twists; i.e. an S/Z/S, or Z/S/Z construction.
- Cabled Yarn
A yarn formed by twisting together two or more plied yarns.
- Calender
A machine used in finishing to impart a variety of surface effects to fabrics. A calender essentially consists of two or more heavy rollers, sometimes heated, through which the fabric is passed under heavy pressure.
- Calendering
A mechanical finishing process for fabrics used to produce special effects, such as high luster, glazing, moiré, and embossed effects.
- Carbon Fiber
A high-tensile fiber or whisker made by heating rayon or polyacrylonitrile fibers or petroleum residues to appropriate temperatures. Fibers may be 7 to 8 microns in diameter and more than 90% carbonized.
- Chenille
Fabric made from piles wound around a securely bound core to create a soft and velvety feel.
- Cloth
A generic term embracing all textile fabrics and felts. Cloth may be formed out of any textile fiber, wire, or material.
- Coated Fabric
A fabric to which a substance such as lacquer, plastic, resin, rubber, or varnish has been applied in firmly adhering layers to provide certain properties, such as water impermeability.
- Coating
The application of a semi-liquid material such as rubber, polyvinyl chloride, or polyurethane to one or both sides of the textile material. Once the coating has dried (cured) it forms a bond with the fabric.
- Color Abrasion
Color changes in localized areas of a garment resulting from differential wear.
- Colorfastness
Resistance to fading, i.e. the ability of a dye to retain its color when the dyed or printed textile material is exposed to conditions or agents such as light, perspiration, atmospheric gases, or washing that can remove color.
- Composite
1. An article or substance of two or more constituents, generally, with reinforcing elements dispersed in a matrix or continuous phase. 2. Hard or soft constructions in which the fibers themselves are consolidated to form structures rather than being formed into yarns. - Conditioning
A process of allowing textile materials to reach equilibrium with the surrounding atmosphere.
- Cone
A conical package of yarn, usually wound on a disposable paper core.
- Coning
The transfer of yarn from skeins or bobbins or other types of packages to cones.
- Converter
An individual or organization that buys greige fabrics and sells them as a finished product to cutters, wholesalers, retailers, and others. The converter arranges for the finishing of the fabric.
- Core Spinning
The process of making a core-spun yarn. It consists of feeding the core yarn into the front delivery roll of the spinning frame and of covering the core yarn with a sheath of fibers during the spinning operation.
- Core-Spun Yarn
A yarn made by twisting fibers around a filament or a previously spun yarn, thus concealing the core.
- Creel
A framework arranged to hold slivers, roving, or yarns so that many ends can be withdrawn smoothly and evenly without tangling.
- Creeling
The mounting of supply packages in a creel to feed fiber to a process, i.e. beaming, warping, or weaving.
- Crimp
1. The waviness of a fiber expressed as crimps per unit length. 2. The difference in distance between two points on an unstretched fiber and the same two points when the fiber is straightened under tension. 3. The difference in the distance between two points when the yarn has been removed from the fabric and straightened under specific tension expressed as a percentage of the distance between the two points as the yarn lies in the fabric. - Crocking
The rubbing-off of dye from a fabric as a result of insufficient dye penetration of fixation, the use of improper dyes or dyeing methods or insufficient washing and treatment after the dyeing operation. Crocking can occur under either wet or dry conditions.
- D
- Damask
A heavy, lustrous-sheen fabric, woven with elaborate patterns and commonly used for traditional upholstery pieces. Named after the city of Damascus and introduced to Europe by Marco Polo.
- Denier
The weight, in grams, of 9000 meters of yarn. The lower the denier number the finer the size of yarn, and the higher the number the larger the size of yarn. In countries other than the USA, Denier is replaced by the Tex system.
- Denier per filament (dpf)
The denier of an individual continuous filament or an individual staple fiber if it were continuous.
- Denier Variation
Usually variation in diameter, or other cross-sectional dimension, along the length of a filament or bundle of filaments. Malfunction or lack of process control in fiber manufacturing causes denier variation.
- Total Denier
The product of the denier per filament and the number of filaments in the tow.
- Yarn Denier
The denier of filament yarn. It is the product of the denier per filament and the number of filaments in the yarn.
- Density
Mass per unit volume usually expressed as grams per cubic centimeter (g/cc). Also known as specific gravity.
- Dent
On a loom, the space between the wires of a reed.
- Dimensional Stability
The ability of textile material to maintain or return to its original geometric configuration.
- Dobby
A mechanical attachment on a loom that controls the harness to permit the weaving of geometric figures.
- Doff
A set of full packages, bobbins, spools, etc. produced by one machine.
- Doffing
The operation of removing full packages, bobbins, spools, etc. from a machine and replacing them with empty ones.
- Double End
Two ends woven as one in a fabric. It may be intentional or accidental.
- Drape
A term to describe the way a fabric falls while it hangs; the suppleness and ability of a fabric to form graceful configurations.
- Drawing-in
In weaving the process of threading warp ends through the eyes of the heddles and the dents of the reed.
- Drop Wires
A stop-motion device utilizing metal wires suspended from warp or creeled yarns. When a yarn breaks, the wire drops, activating a switch that stops the machine.
- Durable Polyester
One of the strongest man-made fibers. It has a great ability to maintain its shape and colors without fading over extensive use and cleanings. It is also resistant to moths, oils and chemicals.
- Dyeing
A process of coloring fibers, yarns, or fabrics with either a natural or synthetic dye. A partial list of dyeing methods follows:
- Pad Dyeing
A form of dyeing whereby a dye solution is applied by means of a pad or mangle.
- Pressure Dyeing
Dyeing by means of forced circulation of dye through packages of fiber, yarn, or fabric under pressure.
- Skein Dyeing
The dyeing of yarn, fiber, or fabric in the form of skeins, or hanks.
- Yarn Dyeing
The dyeing of yarn before the fabric is woven or knit.
- E
- Elastomers
Synthetic polymers having properties of natural rubber such as stretchability and recovery.
- Electrical Conductivity
A measure of the ease of transporting electric charge from one point to another in an electric field.
- Elongation
The deformation in the direction of load caused by a tensile force. Elongation is measured in units of length (inches, millimeters) or calculated as a percentage of the original specimen length. Elongation may be measured at a specific load or at the breaking point.
- Elongation at Break
The increase in length when the last component of the specimen breaks. Usually expressed as %.
- End
An individual warp yarn. A warp is composed of a number of ends.
- End Out
A void caused by a missing warp yarn.
- Entering
The process of threading each warp yarn on a loom beam through a separate drop wire, heddle, and reed space in preparation for weaving.
- Extractables
The material that can be removed from textiles by means of a solvent (water can often be a solvent).
- Extraction
Removal of one substance from another, often accomplished by a solvent.
- F
- Fabric
A planar textile structure produced by interlacing yarns, fibers, or filaments.
- Fabric Construction
The details of structure of fabric. These include such information as style, width, type of weave, or knit, yarns per inch in warp and fill, and weight of goods.
- Fabric Crimp
The angulation induced between a yarn and a woven fabric via the weaving or braiding process.
- Felt
A fabric made of loose, haphazardly arranged wool fibers, which have surface scales that stick to each other as a result of the felt-making process. In Central Asia, nomadic peoples live in circular tents called yurts, the roofs and walls of which are covered in felt.
- Fiber Number
The linear density of a fiber expressed in units such as denier or Tex.
- Fibers
A unit of matter, natural or manufactured, that forms the basic element of fabrics and other textile structures.
- Filament
A fiber of an indefinite or extreme length, such as one found in plant or animal structures. Manufactured fibers are extruded into filaments that are converted into filament yarn, staple, or tow.
- Filament Count
The number of individual filaments that make up a thread or yarn.
- Filament Yarn
A yarn composed of continuous filaments assembled with or without twist.
- Filling
In woven fabric, the yarn running from selvage to selvage at right angles to the warp. Each crosswise length is called a pick. In the weaving process, a shuttle, rapier, or other type of yarn carrier carries the filling yarn.
- Finish
1. A substance or mixture of substances added to textile materials to impart desired properties. 2. A process, physical, or chemical performed on textile materials to produce a desired effect. 3. A property, such as smoothness, drape, luster, water repellency, flame retardancy, or crease resistance that is produced by 1 and/or 2. - Finished Fabric
Fabric that is ready for the market, having passed through the required finishing process.
- Finishing
All the processes through which fabric is passed after bleaching, dyeing, or printing in preparation for the market or use.
- Flame Resistant
A term used to describe a material that burns slowly, or is self-extinguishing after removal of an external source of ignition.
- Flame Retardant
A chemical compound that can be incorporated into a textile fiber during manufacture, or applied to a fiber, fabric, or other textile item during processing to reduce its flammability.
- Flammability Tests
Procedures have been developed to assess the flame resistance of fabrics. Three common tests follow:
- Diagonal Flame Test
In this test for flame resistance, a specimen is mounted at a 45° angle and exposed to an open flame for a specific time. The test measures the ease of ignition and the rate of burning.
- Horizontal Flame Test
A test for flame resistance in which a specimen is mounted in a horizontal holder and exposed to an open flame for a specific time to measure the burning rate and char-hole diameter.
- Vertical Flame Test
A test for flame resistance in which a specimen is mounted in a vertical holder and exposed to an open flame for a specific time. The open flame is then extinguished and continued flaming time and char-length of the sample are measured.
- Float
A weaving defect consisting of an end lying, or floating on the fabric surface instead of being properly woven in.
- G
- Gauge
A generic term for various measurement instruments such as pressure or thickness gauges, also the thickness of a knitting needle, and the number of wales per inch in a knitted fabric.
- Gauge Wire
Used with an extra filling yarn during weaving, this type of standing wire controls the height of fabric pile.
- Geotextiles
Manufactured fiber products made into fabrics of various constructions for use in a wide variety of civil engineering applications. Examples include erosion control fabrics, drainage fabrics, and asphalt overlay fabrics.
- Glass Fiber
A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is glass. These fibers are incombustible and will tolerate heat up to 1000°F. However, the resulting fabric is brittle and fracture points may develop.
- Graphite Fiber
Although the terms carbon and graphite are used interchangeably, graphite fibers are more accurately defined as fibers that are 99+% carbonized, while the term carbon is used for any fiber carbonized from 93% to 95% or more.
- Greige Fabric
An unfinished fabric just off the loom or knitting machine.
- Grosgrain
A fabric with prominent ribs. Grosgrain has a dressy appearance and is used in ribbons, vestments, and ceremonial cloths.
- H
- Hand
The tactile qualities of a fabric, e.g. softness, firmness, elasticity, fineness, resilience, and other qualities perceived by touch.
- Heat Resistance
A property of certain fibers or yarns whereby they resist degradation at high temperatures. Heat resistance can be a quality inherent in a yarn, or it may be imparted by additives or treatment of the resulting fabric.
- Heat Setting
The process of conferring dimensional stability and other desirable properties (wrinkle resistance and improved heat resistance) by means of either moist or dry heat.
- Heat Stabilized
A term to describe fiber or yarn heat-treated to reduce the tendency of the fiber to shrink, elongate under a load, or at elevated temperatures.
- Heddle
A cord, round steel wire, or thin flat steel strip with a loop or eye near the center through which one or more warp threads pass on the loom, so that the yarn movement may be controlled in weaving. The heddles are held at both ends by the harness frame. They control the weave pattern and shed as the harnesses are raised and lowered during weaving.
- Herringbone
A broken twill weave characterized by a balanced zig-zag effect produced by having the rib run first to the right and then to the left for an equal number of threads.
- High Modulus
A term that refers to a material with a higher than normal resistance to deformation.
- Hollow Filament Fibers
Manufactured, continuous filament fibers, having voids created by introduction of air, or other gas in the polymer solution, or melt spinning through specially designed spinnerets.
- Homespun
Course plain-weave fabric of uneven yarns that have a handspun appearance.
- Hopsacking
A course, open, basket-weave fabric that gets its name from the plain-weave fabric of jute or hemp used for sacking in which hops are gathered.
- I
- Impregnated Fabric
A fabric in which the interstices between the yarns are completely filled, as compared to sized or coated materials where the interstices are not completely filled.
- Industrial Fabric
A broad term for fabrics used for non-apparel and non-decorative uses. They fall into the following classes:
1. Fabrics employed in industrial processes (e.g. filtration, polishing, and absorption). 2. Fabrics combined with other materials to form a different material (e.g. rubberized fabric for hose, belting, tires, timing gears, bearings, and electrical parts). 3. Fabrics impregnated with an adhesive and dielectric compounds. 4. Fabrics incorporated directly in a finished product (e.g. sales, tarps, tents, awnings, and specialty belts for agricultural machinery, airplanes, and conveyers).
Fabrics developed for industrial use cover a wide variety of widths, weights, and construction. In many cases, they have been painstakingly developed to meet a specific application.- Inspection
The process of examining textiles for defects at any stage of manufacturing and finishing.
- J
- Jacquard
A system of weaving that utilizes a highly versatile pattern mechanism to permit the production of large, intricate designs and (at Bally Ribbon Mills) shapes. The weave controls the action of one warp yarn for the passage of one pick. Each card perforation machine may carry a large number of cards, depending upon the design, because there is a separate card for each pick in the pattern.
- Jet Loom
A shuttleless loom that employs a jet of water, or air to carry the filling yarn through the shed.
- Jute
A 100% natural fiber that is twice as durable as cotton.
- K
- Kink
In fabrics, a place where a short length of yarn has spontaneously doubled back on itself.
- Kinking
The doubling back of a yarn on itself to relieve torque imparted by twisting or texturing.
- Knit Fabric
A structure produced by interlooping one or more ends of yarn or comparable material.
- Knitting
A method of constructing fabric by interlocking series of loops of one or more yarns. Knitting Types:
- Warp Knitting – A type of knitting in which the yarns generally run lengthwise in the fabric. The yarns are prepared as warps on beams with one or more yarns for each needle. Examples include; Rachel (a plain or lacy knit) and Tricot (run resistant) Knitting.
- Weft Knitting – A common type of knitting, in which one continuous thread runs crosswise in the fabric making all of the loops in one course. An example is Circular Knitting, where the fabric produced on the knitting machine is in the form of a tube, the threads running continuously around the fabric.
- L
- L.O.I.
An abbreviation for Limiting Oxygen Index. It is a relative measure of flammability. The higher the value, the lower the flammability.
- Lace
Ornamental openwork fabric, made from a variety of designs by intricate manipulation of the fiber by machine or hand.
- Leather
Leather is a natural product and is intertwined collagen fibers (protein); the density of the intertwining varies from species to species. Density can differ significantly in an animal’s skin. The most common animal species for automotive leather is predominantly from cows, the hide of which is essentially a by-product from beef farming.
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